Italy Day 1: Coperto, the Pantheon, Trevi’s Fountain, and fantastic food

Arriving at FCO airport in Rome, we were a little tired after the overnight flight, but thankfully there weren’t any problems! We waited for our luggage at bag claim (which, surprisingly, took nearly an hour), and then went to find our car. I had hired a car service through Fattori Car Service, and though it was a decent price to get from FCO to our hotel, I was a little disappointed. Our driver didn’t pay much regard for safety, and drove unbelievably fast and erratically. However, we did make it to our hotel—the Assunta Domus— and unpacked our things.

In my opinion, the hotel was nicely located for the activities that we wanted to do whilst in Rome. One interesting aspect of the hotel was the security. We had four separate keys: one to get in the main door off the street, one for an inside gate, one for the outside door to the apartments, and then finally the key to our individual room. The room was a modern loft, and though it didn’t have the “traditional Italian” feel to it, it was quite nice overall.

Rome - Assunta Domus Hotel - front room
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After I finished unpacking, I thought it would be best to try to find a little grocer to buy some things (like snacks, drinks, et cetera) for the room. I headed north on Via della Scrofa just a few blocks and found a little butcher shop called Volpetti alla Scrofa. As I perused the shelf of wines, I noticed a rather nice Falanghina for an astonishing €10! I picked up a bottle and headed back to the room so that it could chill in the fridge for later that evening.

Our first stop was to a coffee shop so that we could get a little “pick me up” after not getting much rest on the flight. I thought that it might be a good idea to try one of the most well-known cafés in Rome—Sant’Eustachio. I ordered an Americano, Deb got a tea, and we tried a couple small pastries. That’s where the goodness ended, though. First of all, I asked for no sugar, but got it anyway. Second of all, and more importantly, I was immediately introduced to the idea of the coperto. Though the coperto, which is a cover charge or sitting fee, is forbidden in Rome, many restaurants and cafés get around it by charging a “service fee”. Basically, we were charged €5 just to sit at the tables outside. Welcome to Rome! 🙁

Rome - Sant'Eustachio Il Caffee
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Okay, so that wasn’t a great start. After our coffees, we headed just a few blocks away to The Pantheon. Neither words nor photos adequately describe the amazing hugeness or beauty of this building! It just seems to come out of nowhere when you round the bend.

Rome - The Pantheon from the outside
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Though I couldn’t use my tripod once inside the Pantheon, I tried to get some photos. A photo opportunity that jumped out at me almost immediately was when I looked up at the dome of the building. There was this beautiful column of sunlight traversing the magnificent stonework inside, and it looked like a portal to the heavens!

Rome - The Pantheon ceiling letting in beautiful light
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After the Pantheon, we took the ~15-minute walk to see Trajan’s Column, which is located just north of the infamous Roman Forum (which we will be seeing tomorrow). It was this absolutely astonishing work of engineering, considering it was built in AD 113 and is about 30m tall! Not only that, but it’s also comprised of 20 stones that equal about 29 megagrams (yes, ~29,000 kilograms)!

Rome - Trajan's Column
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After standing in awe of Trajan’s Column for a while, we headed about 10 minutes northeast to a museum called Scuderie del Quirinale, which was hosting an exhibit on Japanese Buddhism. Unfortunately, the exhibit wasn’t very well outlined or explained, and the gardens outside of the museum were not accessible to the public. So, for the €12 per person, it was a bit of a letdown. However, there were some beautiful views of the city from atop the building from a wall of glass known as the “Great Window”.

Our last attraction before heading to dinner was Trevi Fountain, which is famous for many reasons, but to me, the most important of which was its part in the lovely 1960s film La Dolce Vita. It was more beautiful in person that I could have imagined. The big drawback was the extreme amount of people there. I expected a lot of tourists, but it certainly does detract from the tranquility of the place.

Rome - Trevi Fountain in the evening
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We then walked just a few blocks to That’s Amore restaurant. Since we were eating early by Italian standards (19:30), we were seated promptly. It seems like we didn’t need our reservations since we were there so “early”. We started our meal with the Specialita Napoletana, which was a plate of hand-rolled pizza dough stuffed with various things like prosciutto, mozzarella and chicory. They were interesting, and I’m glad that we tried them. However, the stars of the show were our entrées. Deb had the Gnocchi alla Sorrentina, which were like little pillows instead of potato dumplings. They were served in a red sauce, and were wonderful. I had the long pasta with pesto, and it was cooked to absolute perfection. I like my pasta firm, and this was exactly what I expected from pasta in Italy! After our mains, we decided to split an order of Paccheri con calamari, guanciale e pecorino (squid, pork cheek, and cheese with wide tube noodles). It was also fantastic, and the squid was so nicely prepared that Deb had to ask which parts were squid (that’s a good sign coming from someone that doesn’t care for calamari). Also, based on the dishes that we ordered, Deb and I had a bit of role reversal in that I ordered the house white wine and she ordered the house red. She actually preferred her wine to mine! Who knows, maybe Italian reds will win her over. 🙂

On our way back to the hotel, we stopped at Giolitti for some dessert. As it is a well-known gelato parlour, we both had our first experience with the classic Italian frozen treat. I had fig and black walnut, and Deb got a mix of mango, peach, and cream. My favourite part of the experience was how bold the flavours were! You never had to guess what you were eating, and that made it a really enjoyable treat.

After our gelato, we walked back to the hotel to retire for the evening. However, me being a total glutton (or just really hungry from not eating much due to the flights) went a couple blocks north of our hotel to Antico Forno la Stelletta and ordered the most perfect pistachio tart that I’ve ever had! Back at the room, we finished off the evening with the bottle of Falanghina that I had purchased earlier this morning. We had to drink it from the plastic cups that were in the room. Normally, I would be pretty unhappy about not having wine glasses, but I think that I was simply too tired to care.

Day 1, down. There were some glitches, but tomorrow we embark on seeing more of The Eternal City.

Cheers,
Zach

Italy: Travel days

It’s hard to believe, but after starting to plan our trip to Italy more than a year ago, the day has finally come. Today, we left Saint Louis for Chicago O’Hare International Airport (ORD), and then from there, Fiumicino (FCO) in Rome, Italy. Seeing as I’m going to be eating far too many heavy carbs with all that pasta, and drinking more than my fair share of wine, I needed to run one last time before taking a breather for the next two weeks. I did my typical 11km (~7 miles), and said goodbye to running for more than 14 days!

The flights were just fine (and actually seemed quite short compared to our most recent trip to Thailand). The only problem that we had is that American Airlines changed the plane used for our longer flight to Rome. Instead of being the bulkhead, (which would have been nice because of the extended legroom), we were just in standard seats. That being said, it wasn’t all that bad.

Comet Coffee and Microbakery in Saint Louis, MO

Comet Coffee and Microbakery, St. Louis, MOAs with most cities, Saint Louis has a plethora of places to get a cup of coffee and some pastries or treats. The vast majority of those places are good, some of them are great, even fewer are exceptional standouts, and the top-tier is comprised of those that are truly remarkable. In my opinion, Comet Coffee and Microbakery finds its way into that heralded top tier. What determines whether or not a coffee shop or café earns that high of marks, you ask? Well, to some degree, that’s up to individual preference. For me, the criteria are:

  • A relaxing and inviting environment
  • Friendly and talented people
  • Exceptional food and beverage quality

First and foremost, I look for the environment that the coffee shop provides. Having a rather hectic work schedule, I like the idea of a place that I can go to unwind and just enjoy some of the more simplistic pleasures of life. Comet Coffee offers the small, intimate café-style setting that fits the bill for me. There are five or six individual tables and some longer benches inside, and a handful of tables outside on the front patio. Though the smaller space sometimes leads to crowding and a bit of a “hustle and bustle” feel, it doesn’t ever seem distracting. Also, during non-peak times, it tends to be quiet and peaceful.

Secondly, a café—or any other eatery, really—is about more than just the space itself. The employees make all the difference! At Comet Coffee, everyone is exceptionally talented in their craft, and it’s apparent that they deeply care about not only the customers they’re serving, but also the food and drinks that they’re making!

Comet Coffee employee Gretchen making a latte
Gretchen starting a latte
Comet Coffee employee Daniel making a pour-over
Daniel making a pour-over coffee

Thirdly, it should go without say that the food and drink quality are incredibly important factors for any café. At Comet, the coffee choices are seemingly limitless, so there are options that will satisfy any taste. Just in pour-overs alone, there are several different roasters (like Kuma, Sweet Bloom, Intelligentsia, Saint Louis’s own Blueprint, and others), from whom Comet offers an ever-changing list of varieties based on region (South American, African, et cetera). In addition to the pour-overs, there are many of the other coffee shop standards like lattes, espressos, macchiatos, cappuccinos, flat whites, and so on. Coffee’s not your thing? That’s fine too because they have an excellent and extensive selection of teas, ranging from the standard blacks, whites, and Darjeelings, to less common Oolongs, and my personal favourite green tea— the Genmaicha, which combines the delicate green tea flavours with toasted rice.

Comet Coffee's extensive tea selection

So between the coffees, espressos, and teas, you shouldn’t have any problem finding a beverage for any occasion or mood. But it isn’t just called “Comet Coffee”, it’s “Comet Coffee and Microbakery.” Though it almost sounds like an afterthought to the coffee, I assure you that the pastries and other baked goods share the stage as costars, and ones that often steal the show! There really isn’t a way for me to describe them that will do them justice. As someone who follows a rather rigid eating regimen, I won’t settle for anything less than stellar desserts and treats. That said, I’ve been blown away by every… single… one of them.

 

Comet Coffee Microbakery - Oat Cookies
Oat Cookies
Comet Coffee Microbakery - Strawberry Rhubarb Pie
Strawberry Rhubarb Pie
Comet Coffee Microbakery - Strawberry and Chocolate Ganache Macarons
Strawberry & Chocolate Ganache Macarons
Comet Coffee Microbakery - Buckwheat Muffin - Strawberry and Pistachio
Buckwheat muffin – Strawberry & Pistachio
Comet Coffee Microbakery - Tomato, Basil, and Mozzerella Quiche
Tomato, Basil, & Mozzerella Quiche
Comet Coffee Microbakery - Chocolate Chip Cookies and Cocoa Nibblers
Chocolate Chip Cookies & Cocoa Nibblers

You should definitely click on each image to view them in full size

 
Though I like essentially all of the treats, I do have my favourites. I tend to get the Oat Cookies most often because they are simple and fulfilling. One time, though, I went to Comet on a Sunday afternoon and the only thing left was a Buckwheat Muffin. Knowing that they simply don’t make any bad pastries, I went for it. Little did I know that it would become my absolute favourite! The baked goods vary with the availability of seasonal and local ingredients. For instance, the spring iteration of the Buckwheat Muffin is Strawberry Pistachio, but the previous one (which was insanely delicious) was Milk Chocolate & Hazelnut (think Nutella done in the best possible way). 🙂

One other testament to the quality of the treats is that Comet makes a few items that I have never liked anywhere else. For instance, I’m not a big fan of scones because they tend to be dry and often have the texture of coarse-grit sandpaper. However, the Lemon Poppy seed Scone and the Pear, Walnut & Goat Cheese Scone are both moist and satisfying. Likewise, I don’t really think much of Macarons, because they’re so light. These ones, however, have some substance to them and don’t make me think of overpriced cotton candy.

Okay, so now that I’ve sold you on Comet’s drinks and baked goods, here’s a little background about this great place. I recently had the opportunity to sit down with owners Mark and Stephanie, and talk with them about Comet’s past, current endeavours, and their future plans.

 

Coffee is about subtle nuances, and it can be continually improved upon. With all those nuances, I like it when one particular flavour note pops out.–Mark

 

Comet Coffee first opened its doors in August of 2012, and Mark immediately started renovating in order to align the space with his visions for the perfect shop. He and his fiancée Stephanie had worked together at Kaldi’s Coffee beforehand, but were inspired to open their own place. Between the two of them—Mark holding a degree in Economics, and Stephanie with degrees in both Hotel & Restaurant Management as well as Baking & Pastry Arts—the decision to foray into the industry together seemed like a given.

Mark had originally anticipated calling the shop “Demitasse,” after the small Turkish coffee cup by the same French name. Stephanie, though, did some research on the area of Saint Louis in which the shop is located (where the Forest Park Highlands amusement parks used to stand), and eventually found out about The Comet roller coaster. The name pays homage to those parks, and may have even been a little hopeful foreshadowing that the shop would become a well-established staple of the community.

When asked what separates Comet from other coffee shops, Mark readily mentioned that they themselves do not roast their own beans. He explained that doing so “requires purchasing [beans] in large quantities,” and that would disallow them from varying the coffee choices day-to-day. Similar to Mark’s comment about the quest of continuously improving the coffee experience, Stephanie indicated that the key to baking is to constantly modify the recipe based on the freshest available ingredients.

 

There are no compromises when baking. You must be meticulous with measurements, and you have to taste throughout the process to make adjustments.–Stephanie

 

Mark and Stephanie are currently in the process of opening an ice cream and bake shop in the Kirkwood area, and plan on carrying many of those items at Comet as well. Looking further to the future, Mark would like to open a doughnut shop where everything is made to order. His rationale—which, being a doughnut connoisseur myself, I find to be completely sound—is that everything fried needs to be as fresh as possible.

I, for one, can’t wait to try the new ice creams that Mark and Stephanie will offer in their Kirkwood location. For now, though, I will continue to enjoy the outstanding brews and unparalleled pastries at Comet Coffee. It has become a weekly go-to spot for me, and one that I look forward to greatly for unwinding after those difficult “Monday through Friday” stretches.

Comet Coffee Macchiato and seltzer
Macchiato and Seltzer
Comet Coffee pour-over brew
Pour-over brew

Cheers,
Zach

 
P.S. No time to leisurely enjoy the excellent café atmosphere? No worries, at least grab one to go. It will definitely beat what you can get from any of those chain coffee shops. 🙂

Comet Coffee to-go cup