Italy Day 9: School of Leather and Cooking Class at Cook Eat Italian

We woke up a bit later than normal this morning, which was fine because the itinerary was fairly loose for the day. We started off by just casually strolling around the city, and then made our way to Scuola del Cuoio (the School of Leather making). I purchased a belt from another leather shop yesterday, but I was really in the market for a wallet. I found the leather products at Scuola del Cuoio to be some of the highest quality items in Florence, so I purchased a wallet for myself, and another one as a gift.

We then walked to Piazza della Signoria, which houses many replicas of statues, including the fake David. Overall, it was a neat plaza but didn’t really stand out. It was fun to people watch there, though.

We then stopped off at Dondino for some coffee and tea. It is primarily known for being a great wine bar, but unfortunately, we wouldn’t have the chance to try it since this is our last day in Florence and we already have plans for this evening. After our drinks, we took a quick look at Ponte Vecchio, which is a well-known bridge across the Arno River that is home to many different shops. The shops may have been better at one point in time, but nowadays, they don’t offer much in the way of excitement, quality, or value.

Ponte Vecchio bridge and shops in Florence, Italy
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From there, we took the 20-25 minute walk to Piazzale Michelangelo. It is definitely a hike to the top as the steps are absurdly steep. However, the views from the plaza were absolutely stunning, and may have actually been better than the views from the top of the Duomo.

View of Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo
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After taking it all in from one of the best vantage points in the city, we walked another 25 minutes or so to our cooking class at Cook Eat Italian with Manuela. The class was one of the highlights of Florence for both of us because Manuela was wonderful in both explaining the concepts to us, and letting us actively help with the preparation of our meal. We started off by preparing Tiramisu, which isn’t exactly a “classic” Italian dessert (originating only in the 1960s), but it is a popular one.

Making Tiramisu at Cook Eat Italian cooking class in Florence
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Whilst we were working on the components for the Tiramisu, Manuela informed me that the Caffè Americanos to which I had become so accustomed in Italy were not actually anything other than the standard espresso shot with added hot water. Who knew?!

Once we had the Tiramisu ready and put into the refrigerator so it could chill and set up, we moved on to making our mains of chicken Cacciatore (which was originally done with rabbit, not chicken), and the mushroom sauce for our fresh spaghetti. When we were beginning the sauce for the Cacciatore, Manuela had us sample a bunch of types of tomatoes so that we would better understand the differences between the varieties of such a common ingredient in Italian cooking.

Sampling various tomatoes at Cook Eat Italian cooking class in Florence
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Now, for me, the highlight of the cooking class was getting to make our own pasta. We worked on the mushroom sauce for the pasta a bit earlier, but we then shifted focus to making the pasta itself. As a rule of thumb, Manuela taught us that 100g of flour (a 50/50 split between all-purpose and Semolina) is good for two portions. We then made a crater in the mound of flour and dropped in an egg per 100g mix. After working the dough (which is difficult because it sticks to your fingers), we wrapped it in plastic wrap and let it proof. Then came the fun part! We rolled out the dough, and put it onto the pasta chitarra (“Pasta Guitar”) in order to cut it into Spaghetti.

Making spaghetti on the pasta chitarra guitar at Cook Eat Italian cooking class in Florence
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Lastly, before indulging in our wonderful culinary creations, Manuela made us fried Zucchini blossoms two different ways. I stirred up the beer batter, and she showed us that less batter results in a thicker coating, whereas more beer makes the batter light and crispy (like a Tempura).

Here are the results of our labour:

Fried Zucchini blossoms at Cook Eat Italian cooking class in Florence
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Spaghetti with mushrooms and sausage at Cook Eat Italian cooking class in Florence
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Chicken Cacciatore and spinach and garlic at Cook Eat Italian cooking class in Florence
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Finished Tiramisu at Cook Eat Italian cooking class in Florence
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Overall, the cooking class was an absolute blast, and one of the experiences from the trip that I wouldn’t trade for the world!

We then took a taxi back to the hotel, but I accidentally gave the driver the address to Vivoli because I misread the itinerary. He didn’t seem to mind, and took us the rest of the way back to the hotel. Seeing as 1) I am a glutton, and 2) I wasn’t feeling all that well today, we went down the street to Habiki-an Japanese restaurant so I could get some takeaway pork Katsu. It turns out that I was just having Asian food withdrawal, and this was a great fix for that problem as it was some of the best Katsu that I’ve had outside of Japan. 😉

We then went back to the room, and had the bottles of wine that we had purchased earlier from Incontro di Vino. It was lovely to just sit in the room and enjoy our wines together.

Cheers,
Zach

Italy Day 8: Florence, David, and Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives

Today we started a new leg of our journey through Italy. After one last morning of coffee and tea on the beautiful patio at Casa Bolsinina, we drove nearly due north to the city of Florence. Unlike our previous bed and breakfast, our accommodations (at La Farina Apartments) in Florence were very modern, and indeed, more like an extended-stay setting. The rooms were huge, the location was a bit outside of the city centre (which was nice), and there was an on-site car park. That last perk was key because we didn’t want to drive anywhere in Florence.

After unpacking our bags, and settling in for the next couple days in Florence, we walked to Vivoli for gelato. Originally opening in 1929, it was one of the first gelaterias in the city. To me, though, it really wasn’t anything special. I did enjoy that they had rice gelato, which made for an interesting texture contrast, but as for the flavours themselves, they didn’t stand out from some of the other gelato that we’ve had (especially considering Gelateria Brivido in Siena).

We then walked to one of the main areas that you have to visit when in Florence, Piazza del Duomo, which is home to the Cathedral of Saint Mary of Florence, the Baptistery of Saint John, and Giotto’s bell tower. Our first stop was the Baptistery, and, as expected, it was a stunning display of architecture. The doors on the front of the building were incredibly intricate, but one shouldn’t miss the inside of the Baptistery either:

Ornate doors of the Baptistery of St. John in Florence, Italy
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Inside, the details in the floor and especially the ceiling were remarkable! Unfortunately, tripod usage was not allowed inside, but I was still able to get a couple shots that captured the beauty of the place:

Beautiful ceiling of the Baptistery of St. John in Florence, Italy
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After seeing St. John’s Baptistery, which was quite small by comparison to the main Cathedral, I couldn’t imagine what we would see inside there. We had purchased tickets to ascend the Duomo, and like with the Vatican tickets, purchasing them ahead of time was the only way to go. We didn’t have to queue up for very long at all. Before the ascent, though, (which is at a scheduled entrance time based on the purchased ticket), we stood in the plaza in awe of the Cathedral.

Florence Cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore
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Being on the ground made it difficult to fully appreciate the level of detail on the statues above the entrance to the Cathedral. Fortunately, I had my trusty Canon 70-200mm lens and 2x III extender, so I was able to get a closer view. Though all of the statues were glorious, I focused on the statue of Mother Mary and the baby Jesus, which was right above the main entrance to the Cathedral. I couldn’t believe the level of detail in the stonework (especially the eyes):

Statue of Mary and Jesus at the Florence Cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore
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As far as the ascent to the top of the Duomo, there isn’t all that much to say about it except that the steps were steep and plentiful (around 460, if I recall correctly). It was very crowded at times, but the views of the city were worth it. As long as you’re in good cardiovascular and pulmonary health, it shouldn’t be missed. When we came back down from the top of the Duomo, we were supposed to then ascend Giotto’s bell tower. However, we talked to a woman from Boston who indicated that it might not be worth it after the Duomo. The bell tower is not quite as tall, and seeing as it is extremely close to the Cathedral, the views would be quite similar.

Since we didn’t do the bell tower, we had a little extra time before our tickets to the Accademia Gallery, and I wanted to look at a couple leather shops. We went to Michelangelo Florentine which is one of the better shops in Florence. Note that there are hundreds of leather shops, but the vast majority of them are not authentic. You really need to do your homework on the shops, but Michelangelo Florentine, Davide Cerasi, and of course, Scuola del Cuoio (the School of Leather) are top choices. The owner at Michelangelo Florentine was proficient and very friendly. I found a belt there, and he cut it to size for me, and even added some extra holes for when I return to my normal weight after eating like a fool on this trip. 😛 I wanted to look for some more leather goods, but we had to get to the Gallery by the time on our tickets (once again, purchasing ahead of time is a MUST).

We made it in time to the Accademia Gallery in order to see the real David by Michelangelo. It was massive—I mean, far larger than one anticipates—and was clearly the focal point of the gallery. I took several photos, including the full statue, but my personal favourite ended up being this one:

Michelangelo's David at the Accademia Gallery in Florence
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primarily because of the lighting, and slightly different viewing angle.

As there wasn’t all that much else of interest in the gallery, we left and walked toward our dinner reservations at La Cucina del Garga. I chose this particular restaurant primarily because of Guy Fieri‘s stellar review of it on the television show Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives.

La Cucina del Garga restaurant from Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives with Guy Fieri
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The food and service were outstanding, and it ended up being one of the best meals of the trip! Once seated, we were given a complimentary glass of Prosecco (although there is a coperto [seating charge], so that may have covered it), and we ended up getting a starter of polenta as a gift from the chef. We ordered two sides (“contorno”) as an appetiser, and both were delicious. We went with spinach and garlic as well as rosemary red potatoes. I think that we have both missed veggies on this trip. 🙂 For our mains, we ordered Fettucine with orange, lemon zest, and mint as well as Trofie (a fantastically dense short pasta) with pistachio and cherry tomatoes. Both pasta dishes were traditional with the chef’s unique twist, and both were excellent. The pastas are made fresh, so expect it to take some time—it’s completely worth it!

After dinner, we walked back to the hotel, picked up a couple takeaway bottles of wine from Don Fefe restaurant (next door to our hotel), and enjoyed them in the room. It was a very nice and relaxing evening after our first day in Florence.

Cheers,
Zach

Italy Day 7: San Gimignano, Vernaccia, and Montenidoli

Today we started off by having a little breakfast on the patio at our wonderful bed & breakfast, Casa Bolsinina. It was bright, sunny, and pretty hot for the season. Fortunately, though, there was a nice breeze blowing through the courtyard. After some coffee and such, we drove about an hour northwest to San Gimignano. It’s a beautiful town with a lot of shops and architecture to see. We spent a lot of the early afternoon just walking through the streets of town, enjoying the weather and the day.

One unexpected event was seeing a musician playing an instrument known as the Hang drum by a company called PANArt. I had seen some other people playing the instrument, but this particular musician—Amayur played it with a level of intricacy that I hadn’t experienced before. I enjoyed the unique sounds so much that I actually picked up a copy of his CD that he had for sale.

Amayur playing the PanART Hang drum in San Gimignano, Italy
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One thing that I wanted to see was the museum dedicated to the local wine varietal (Vernaccia), which is unusual for Tuscany as it is a white grape. The museum was free of charge, and had some really interesting information about the history of the grape, the viticulture, and the wine’s role throughout the historical formation of the region.

Vernaccia Wine Museum in San Gimignano, Italy
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Just outside of the Vernaccia Museum was a peaceful park with many olive trees and people just spending time enjoying the beauty of their surroundings. As we were walking through it, we came across an artist painting with watercolours. His name was Peter Fuchs, and he went by the nickname of Kavi. I really enjoyed a painting that he had made of a typical Tuscan home at dusk, so I bought it from him.

Peter Fuchs - Kavi - painter in San Gimignano
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We got a little lost talking with Kavi about his paintings, and realised that we had to step it up in order to make our winery tour. I went into this one thinking that it would be more geared toward Deb since Vernaccia is a white varietal. That being said, it is a lovely dry white wine that was actually upgraded from DOC to DOCG in 1993. Plus, how can you not like a wine that is mentioned directly by Dante in Purgatorio? 🙂 So, anyway, we headed to Montenidoli for our tour.

It turned out to be an absolutely fantastic experience, partly because our tour guide was so knowledgeable about the land, and had many viewpoints about winemaking that I had not considered. For instance, he said that “the land is the winemaker,” which really struck me as true. I hadn’t thought about it, but the land is truly the one responsible for the wine in that it gives us the gifts of the vines and grapes. Throughout the rest of the tour, we got to see various aspects of their winemaking processes. As they focus on whites, they had some steel and concrete tanks for both fermentation and ageing:

Stainless steel and concrete tanks at Montenidoli Winery in San Gimignano
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After the tour, we went into the tasting room to sample the various wines that the producer had to offer. As a complete surprise, Elisabetta Fagiuoli (the owner of the vineyard) came in to greet us! She brought with her some fried polenta and various Tuscan breads. The best thing that she brought with her, though, was her personality! She was an absolute pleasure!

We tasted essentially all of Montenidoli’s offerings, and they all had great aspects to them. Surprisingly, my personal favourites ended up being the two IGT blends instead of the DOC/DOCG 100% Vernaccias (although the Carato was also exceptional).

My absolute favourite was the Il Templare, which is a blend of 70% Vernaccia, 20% Trebbiano, and 10% Malvasia. It was very complex on the nose with some traces of pineapple and banana. Interestingly, though, it had more honeysuckle and edible flower notes in the mid-palate.

The runner-up for me was the Vinbrusco, which was a blend of 65% Trebbiano and 35% Malvasia. The most fascinating part of this blend is that it was made only from the “free run”, which is the ~40-50% of the juice in the grape that is extracted naturally by gravity. This blend was very light on the nose, and stuck out to me because it gave me flavours that I’ve never before experienced from wine—cucumber and oil. The only thing that would have made this wine better would have been some outstanding Thai food. 🙂

After our tour and tasting, we decided to stop off in Siena for dinner on the way back. Unfortunately, the restaurant we wanted to try was booked for the evening, so we just chose a place in Piazza del Campo. The food was nothing more than mediocre, but that’s what happens when you eat in the main square. Before we left, we heard lots of cheering and yelling. Out of nowhere, runners flew past us (yes, even up and down those unbelievably hilly streets). There was a foot race going on that evening, and we just happened to be in the thick of it.

Back at our lovely bed and breakfast, we finished off the evening with one final round of fine wine and snacks on the terrace. I went with a younger Brunello this time—a 2010 Tenute Silvio Nardi Vigneto Manachiara, (which is from the single Manachiara vineyard that is southeast-facing at ~300m [AKA, fantastic])—and Deb tried the Ribolla Gialla from Schiopetto. Her wine was nice, but not really memorable. Mine, on the other hand, was outstanding, and showed just how good younger Brunellos can be with some time to decant properly. I had asked Maria if she might have something sweet to snack on, and being the absolutely incredible hostess that she was, offered me some biscuits that her friends visiting from Sicily had made for her. It was like having another whole meal, and we should have foregone dinner in favour of it! 🙂

Brunello wine and snack tray at Casa Bolsinina in Tuscany, Italy
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Cheers,
Zach