Sep 14 2016

Italy Day 13: The journey to Bracciano, and a wonderful dinner at Pane e Olio

Today is one of the few days on our trip that was, unfortunately, comprised of mostly travel. After we checked out of our hotel (Il Saracino), we made our way back down to the Port of Capraia. A staff member of the hotel took our bags down to Port, but we decided to make the nice walk one last time. Along the way, we stopped to take in the glorious view of the Port, and the pristine waters of the Ligurian Sea.

Torremar Ferry at the Port of Capraia returning to Livorno
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We got to the Port well ahead of time. Why? In order to start the day off right with one last gelato from La Gelateria di Capraia. 😉 I went with the coconut again, because why change a good thing? We boarded the ferry and in under three hours, we were back in the port city of Livorno where we had parked the car for our mini-trip to Capraia Isola. In the car, it was about a 3h30m drive down the coast toward Rome. We left Tuscany, and entered back into Lazio (the region that encompasses Rome). About 30km northwest of Rome is the lake town of Bracciano, which I’ve heard can be a common vacation spot for Romans in the summer. Though Bracciano is the bigger city, we chose to stay in the neighbouring town of Anguillara Sabazia in a very small bed and breakfast called Vicolo dei Pescatori.

Al Vicolo dei Pescatori in Anguillara Sabazia - view of Lake Bracciano
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As you can see, we were about as close to Lake Bracciano as possible. Directly across from our bed and breakfast was the owner’s restaurant, La Nepitella. We decided not to eat there, but he was nice enough to let us purchase some wine for us to enjoy later on our beautiful balcony (how could you not enjoy that view?) The only problem that we had with the room was that the air conditioning was not working. The owner explained how it worked, but to us, it wasn’t working at all. It was cooler outside, and you could hear it working in the main living space of the house, but not in our individual room. No AC made it very difficult to sleep. 🙁

We got in fairly late in the evening, so after unpacking, we got back in the car and made the short drive to Bracciano. We chose to eat at Pane e Olio which was in the plaza right next to the Castle of Bracciano. Boy, am I glad that we chose this restaurant! Everything from the service to the cool breeze of outside seating, and of course, the food, was impeccable (not to mention, affordable). The food, though, was the absolute star!

We started with the Prosciutto and fresh mozzarella, which came on a bed of shredded lettuce. The combination of the salty Prosciutto and the cool, refreshing mozzarella (the freshest I’ve ever had) was simply divine. We also ordered the Pizza fritta, which were essentially these beautifully fried hunks of dough with Marinara, basil, and some grated cheese.

Pane e Olio in Bracciano - fried pizza
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For our mains, I had Carbonara, but this was REAL Carbonara—the sauce was primarily egg and NO cream. Deb had the gnocchi, which was lovely, but she claims was still not quite as good as at That’s Amore in Rome.

Pane e Olio in Bracciano - Carbonara
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After that completely blissful meal, we stopped at Gran Caffe Principe di Napoli, which was a wonderful bakery. I picked up a Tartufo to take away, but this one was interesting in that it was vanilla instead of the typical chocolate. We went back to the hotel, sipped our wine on the patio, and called it a night. Even with all the driving and travelling today, it ended on some really nice notes.

Cheers,
Zach

Sep 13 2016

Italy Day 12: More relaxation in Capraia and the million-dollar view

We woke up ready to embrace our only full day on Capraia Isola. We spent most of yesterday learning the layout of the two main areas of the island (the Port and the Village). Today we planned on taking some of the trails into the undeveloped areas of the island (which is most of it). Before getting started, though, we headed back to La Gelateria di Capraia for some gelato (can you think of a better breakfast than ice cream)? 😉 This time, though, I ordered the coconut flavour, and realised that’s what I’ve been missing my whole life. Not only was the flavour incredibly refreshing and tropical, but the shaved coconut added a great textural contrast with the creamy gelato.

After our morning snack, we started out walking some of the shorter trails around the island. Even being fairly close to the hotel, some of the views were outstanding.

Capraia Isola village on the seaside cliff
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Two things about the island have seemed to captivate me more than anything else. First of all, there are many places where the island just comes to a cliff that drops off into the Ligurian Sea. Second of all, the colours of the sea are variegated or even banded based on depths. They range from a light almost sea foam colour to a brilliant turquoise to a deep blue that borders on navy:

Capraia Isola prickly pears and the Ligurian Sea
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After moseying around some of the shorter, nearby trails, we walked the road behind San Nicola church to the cemetery. The cemetery was gated and locked, and we wouldn’t have gone in out of respect anyway. That being said, the view of the path back to town gave a lot of perspective regarding the distances and space on the island.

Capraia Isola path from the cemetery to town
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After talking with the one of the staff members at our hotel, we realised that we didn’t have enough time to do the longer trails on the island—some of them are upwards of 8-hours in duration and quite rugged! So, we decided on a much shorter trail that would still give us an idea of the undeveloped terrain. We went on the trail behind the Village that leads to Cala della Zurletto (Zurletto beach). The trail was moderate in spots, but it did give us a better understanding of the landscapes:

Capraia Isola - trail to Zurletto Beach 1
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Capraia Isola - trail to Zurletto Beach 2
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Capraia Isola - trail to Zurletto Beach 3
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This particular trail, as I mentioned, leads to Zurletto beach. There is a fork where one can either head down many steps to the beach itself, or continue on back to the Village. We didn’t go all the way down to the beach because there were a lot of people down there. However, there was a bench at the top of the steps that overlooked the sea, and it was unbelievably serene! I could have sat on this bench and just looked and listened to the sea for hours on end. It was truly the first time on this trip that I’ve felt relaxed and at peace (hard to imagine that it took 12 days for that).

Capraia Isola - Zurletto Beach bench overlooking the Liguarian Sea
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Unfortunately, though, we had to start heading back toward town before it got dark. We walked back to the hotel, and freshened up a little bit before setting out for the evening. We bought some more wine at the local market, and then walked back down to the Port for dinner. Like I said, we enjoyed our dinner at Al Vecchio Scorfano so much last evening that we made reservations again for tonight. In fact, we liked what we ate so much that we ordered the same things again. See yesterday’s post regarding the excellent Penne con pesto and Penne with squid. This time, though, we decided to share a litre of the house white wine, and were both taken aback by how good it was for such a low price! After our lovely dinner, we took the bus back to the hotel (for the wildly expensive fee of €1 per person 😛 ). We took our wine out by the pool, and again finished the evening sipping on it and listening to the sounds of the waves crashing up against the rocks below. I wish that I had allowed for some more time here, but alas…

Cheers,
Zach

Sep 12 2016

Italy Day 11: The ferry to, and relaxation in Capraia Isola

Today we were up before the sun so that we could get ready for our trip to Capraia Isola, which is a very small Tuscan island (with a population of ~400) off the coast of Livorno. We drove from our hotel to the port city of Livorno, and parked our car at S.T.P (Servizi Turistici Parcheggi), which we booked ahead of time using ParkVia. I didn’t really see any need to have a car on the island, and the price for parking for a couple days was vastly cheaper than paying to take the care on the ferry with us.

We then walked to Porto Mediceo, which was a little confusing only because I thought that our Torremar ferry departed from Porto Livorno instead. Other than that, it wasn’t that bad of a walk. Last night, we packed all the clothes and things that we would need into one smaller suitcase, which made it even easier to get our luggage onto the ferry. We did that, in part, because of the weight limit of 20kg per for each person, but found out that that rule wasn’t very strictly enforced anyway.

Torremar Ferry at Porto Mediceo in Livorno
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The ferry only took 2h45m to get from Livorno to Capraia, and the journey didn’t seem long at all considering how luxurious it was! There was a full bar, café, children’s play area, and extremely comfortable seating inside.

When we arrived at Capraia, we quickly found out that it is separated into two sections: the Port and the Village. Obviously, the ferry arrives in the Port area. There are many shops and restaurants in the Port, but the Village is the location of the few hotels on the island. Upon our arrival, a staff member from our hotel (Il Saracino) loaded our luggage into a car, and drove us up to the Village.

Capraia Isola - Tuscan island - Port
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After unpacking our bags, and settling in, we basically walked around the Village and Port areas just taking in the beauty of the island. We found that many places close in the afternoon, and reopen later in the evening. One place—La Gelateria di Capraia—stayed open most of the day though. We stopped in for a snack (gelato, of course). This place offered some really interesting flavours, like sweet biscuits (small cookies mixed in), and shaved chocolate. It was really refreshing, and nice, especially seeing as the portions were quite large for only €4! The owner was also really hospitable and friendly (as were most people on the island).

We continued walking around the Port and Village (as 90%+ of the island is undeveloped), and it seemed like every single place was photo-worthy! We saw two of the primary attractions, Forte San Giogio (but only from the outside), and Torre del Porto. We had a beautiful view of the Tower from our hotel room.

Torre del Porto on Capraia Isola
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We found the one small store in the Village, which is Minimarket Cerri Stefano, located just a couple blocks east of San Nicola church on Via Carlo Alberto. We picked up some wine there to take back to the room, and I bought some mini Nutella tarts, because apparently I’m addicted to them. After dropping off our wine and desserts at the hotel room, we just took a quick look around the property before going back down to the Port to find a restaurant for dinner. The Il Saracino hotel property was really stunning, and had some wonderful views of the sea. There were also many beautiful places to sit and just overlook the water.

Seaside courtyard at Il Saracino hotel on Capraia Isola
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We walked back down to the Port to try to decide on a restaurant for dinner. Instead of taking the main road that connects the Port and the Village, we found a small side trail that is only suitable for walking. Not only was it more comfortable to walk on this trail, but it offered some really nice views of the sea and Port.

Capraia Isola trail from the village to port
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Once we got back down to the Port, we had a look at the menus of the various restaurants. Many of them looked good, but we narrowed it down to Cherie, or Al Vecchio Scorfano. We had also considered Nonno Beppe, but it was only open on the weekends during shoulder season.

We ended up eating at Al Vecchio Scorfano because the menu looked great, they opened earlier than Cherie, and the waitstaff was very welcoming. We were both really happy with our restaurant decision! We started off with some grilled vegetables, which were quite flavourful (we had both been missing them on this trip). I then ordered Penne con pesto, and it was some of the best pesto that I’ve had… ever! The pasta was cooked perfectly, with a very nice chew to it, and the pesto was unbelievably flavourful and bold. Deb got a Penne with grilled squid, and enjoyed it as well. It was more fishy than the squid dish that we had at That’s Amore in Rome, but it was very fresh. We also split a bottle of Falanghina at the restaurant. We enjoyed the meal so much that we asked the owner if we could go ahead and make reservations for tomorrow night as well. She seemed delighted, and welcomed us back the following night.

We walked back to the hotel, and had our wine on the edge of the world (near the hotel’s pool) overlooking the sea. It was truly beautiful, and the staff at Il Saracino was more than accommodating by giving us some of their wine glasses to use, even though we didn’t purchase the wine from them. Our first day in Capraia was very nice, and I’m looking forward to the adventures of hiking some of the island’s trails tomorrow.

Cheers,
Zach